Chateau Maime makes two kosher Cotes de Provence roses twenty dollars apart, and the deciding difference is not the price - the $19.99 Collection is mevushal and the $39.99 is not. What each one tastes like, which table each belongs on, and why pale Provence rose is drier than most white wine.

French labels say a place, not a grape, which is the only thing that makes them look hard. Bordeaux means cabernet and merlot, Sancerre means sauvignon blanc, Cotes de Provence means dry pink. The full kosher French shelf from $12.99 to $399.99, and what to buy at every price.