Margaux is a village on the left bank of the Gironde, not a grape and not a chateau. It is the perfumed one of the four great Medoc communes, it holds more classified growths than any other, and three of its estates are on our shelf between $129.99 and $149.99. What the 1855 list means and what you are paying for.

Chateau Maime makes two kosher Cotes de Provence roses twenty dollars apart, and the deciding difference is not the price - the $19.99 Collection is mevushal and the $39.99 is not. What each one tastes like, which table each belongs on, and why pale Provence rose is drier than most white wine.

Sancerre is a place, not a grape - a hill town in the eastern Loire where white must be Sauvignon Blanc and pink must be Pinot Noir. What Caillottes, Terres Blanches and Silex do to the flavour, why it tastes like wet stone, how it differs from New Zealand, and the three kosher Sancerre on our shelf from $29.99.

French labels say a place, not a grape, which is the only thing that makes them look hard. Bordeaux means cabernet and merlot, Sancerre means sauvignon blanc, Cotes de Provence means dry pink. The full kosher French shelf from $12.99 to $399.99, and what to buy at every price.