Sancerre is a place, not a grape - a hill town in the eastern Loire where white must be Sauvignon Blanc and pink must be Pinot Noir. What Caillottes, Terres Blanches and Silex do to the flavour, why it tastes like wet stone, how it differs from New Zealand, and the three kosher Sancerre on our shelf from $29.99.

French labels say a place, not a grape, which is the only thing that makes them look hard. Bordeaux means cabernet and merlot, Sancerre means sauvignon blanc, Cotes de Provence means dry pink. The full kosher French shelf from $12.99 to $399.99, and what to buy at every price.