Grand Vin is French for great wine, and on a label it means the estate's flagship bottling - not a legal classification, and not the same thing as Grand Cru. Where the idea comes from in Bordeaux, what it does not tell you, and the Domaine du Castel ladder from $29.99 to $112.99 as a worked example.

Vines at 900 metres on the edge of the Negev, hot days and cold nights, and a flagship red built to age ten years. The whole Yatir range from the $29.99 Darom rose to the $244.99 magnum, and which bottle is the right one for your table.

Katlav is one of Israel's original boutique wineries - a small operation in Nes Harim, high in the Judean Hills, run by an architect who learned winemaking from a neighbour. Here is the range and where to start.